Tag Archives: Tommy Hilfiger

Suede Parade On Spring 2015 Runways

Gucci, Chloe, and Loewe.

Gucci, Chloe, and Loewe.

You’ll look sensational in suede separates.

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Who doesn’t love a 1970’s throwback? The soft and devilishly delicate form of leather is scheduled to make a comeback come Spring 2015. Jason Wu’s best look was a showstopping, semi-seafoam green dress with a deep v and high slit.

Jason Wu

Jason Wu

Michael Kors and Ralph Lauren sent out preppy but not prim suede suits in navy and forest green that I’m just dying to integrate into your workwear wardrobe. Derek Lam and Karen Walker had a more playful take, showing suede ensembles in pastel purple and sunny yellow.

Michael Kors Spring/Summer 2015

Michael Kors Spring/Summer 2015

2015’s suede designs are distinctive not just in their hue and material, but in their modest formality. Altuzarra, Ralph Lauren, and Jason Wu created office-optimal suede dresses ready to revive weary working women and animate ambitious upstarts. The matching suede sets seen at Michael Kors and Derek Lam mix the structure of a suit with retro cheekiness to delightful results.

Altuzarra

Altuzarra

T Magazine of The NYT traced the linerage of next Season’s strong streak of suede:

The material was first spotted in New York at Derek Lam, but it really started to trend in Milan. At Gucci, the creative director Frida Giannini presented a boho-charged collection of floral, beaded minidresses, colored fur vests and the suede belted dress above, that looked straight out of the brand’s archives. Yesterday in Paris, the designer Claire Waight Keller introduced a similar silhouette on the Chloé runway: a shorter, belted jacket paired with shorts. And finally at Loewe, the British designer Jonathan Anderson used leather and suede heavily in his debut show for the Spanish luxury leather-goods brand — which peaked with this buff suede trench coat with wide-leg trousers. The bag reinforced the message loud and clear: suede is in.

Head to toe suede might seem intimidating at first, but don’t be discouraged: there are plenty of ways to make this look modern and convenient for any girl on the go. Since suede is naturally a loose, thin fabric, you’re going to want to add form with clean lines and solid structure.

 

Cathy Horyn’s 5 Fiercest Fashion Feuds

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I’m paying homage to the baddest bitch in fashion you don’t know enough about: Cathy Horyn. The New York Time’s brash and brilliant head of fashion journalism struck awe- and not a small amount of rage- of diva designers for 15 years. Cathy stepped down from her post as NYT fashion critic in January, to focus on taking care of her dying partner and writing that long anticipated novel. 

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Utterly fearless and brutally insightful, Cathy Horyn’s biting critique and accurate analysis of every major player in the fashion industry earned her a large and loyal readership. Not to mention the grudging respect- and sometimes even surprising friendship- of the powerful designers she judged fearlessly.

Unlike the legions of bloggers and commenters who dare not insult the powers that be (because they have nothing to lose) or occasional gentle rebuke in major publications (who dare not alienate potential advertisers/coveted invitations/rungs on the social-climbing ladder), criticism from Cathy Horyn strikes a nerve.

Or vein.

Or occasionally a spurting jugular. 

If you don’t have time to peruse the 1,123 articles Cathy Horyn penned during her time at The New York Times (and really who does), here’s a breakdown of the biggest scandals and fiercest feuds of Cathy Horyn’s marvelous career.

1. Oscar de la Renta

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When Cathy Horyn won the CFDA award for fashion journalism back in 2002, Women’s Wear Daily celebrated the event with an article, “Does The New York Times Hate Fashion?” complete with a quote from Oscar de la Renta who argued that: “Cathy Horyn is not one who loves fashion or enhances fashion in any manner. There are personal commentaries and digs, not only about the designers, but about people who attend the shows, which I consider unnecessary and unprofessional in reviewing a collection… I’ll say it. I’m not a coward.”

The battle reached a boil in September of 2012, when Cathy wrote a scathing review of Oscar’s latest collection, dubbing him the “hot dog” of American fashion. Oscar’s rebuttal was swift and public. A few days later, Horyn opened her WWD to see a full-page ad from De la Renta calling her a “stale 3-day old hamburger.”

In a Harper’s Bazaar Essay published just this month, Cathy Horyn made a surprising revelation: “A lot of people find it surprising that I’m friendly with Oscar de la Renta even though he once took out an ad in Women’s Wear Daily calling me a “hamburger.” (I had sportingly used “hot dog” in my review of his Spring 2013 collection.) This was silly business—it is a silly business—but if there’s one thing I know from covering Oscar for three decades, it’s that he’s intensely competitive. A good fight, even a phony good fight, magnifies power. It also creates a ton of publicity, as Oscar reminded me with a grin when I saw him a few weeks later.”

2. Hedi Slimane

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In October of 2012,  Hedi Slimane debuted his highly hyped, ultra anticipated debut for Saint Laurent. Yet NYT’s infamous fashion critic Cathy Horyn was pointedly not invited. Apparently Saint Laurent’s it-kid new Creative Director was still sulking about a piece Horyn wrote 8 YEARS before, in 2004, about Raf Simons. In the piece, Cathy had the gall to dismiss one of Slimane’s pieces (specifically a cut of slim pants) as imitations of Raf Simons pants. 8 years is quite a long time to hold a grudge, but apparently Hedi was determined to serve revenge cold by withholding a coveted invite to his triumphant new St. Laurent show.

Unperturbed, Horyn reviewed the St. Laurent Collection from home, and shockingly decided that she didn’t much care for Hedi Slimane’s new St. Laurent looks anyhow. Horyn’s deliciously dismissive review derided the collection as “a nice but frozen vision of a bohemian chick at the Chateau Marmont. Or in St. Tropez.” In a fit of petulant pique, Slimane lashed out on (what else) Twitter, tweeting that Horyn was a “a schoolyard bully and also a little bit of a stand-up comedian,” and “publicist in disguise.” Horyn’s flippant response? “It’s silly nonsense to me.”

3.  Lady Gaga

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In September of 2011, Lady Gaga penned a piece for V Magazine slamming Horyn’s style of criticism and posing the rather pretentious question, “When did the pretense of fashion become more important than its influence on a generation?” Clearly, Gaga takes her meat dresses and see through jump suits very seriously, and considers her increasingly outlandish apparel as art rather than shameless attention seeking.

Not satisfied with writing a magazine article dismissing Horyn’s work, Gaga decided to milk the feud for all it’s worth via a song. Lady Gaga released a single called “Cake Like Lady Gaga,” including lyrics like “Cathy Horyn, your style ain’t dick” and, classier still, a schoolyard taunt aimed at Horyn’s sickly partner, Art Ortenberg, braying “Ortenberg, you can suck my dick.”

4. Tommy Hilfiger

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In 2010, Cathy Horyn penned a blistering, snarky, not even pretending to be remotely nice review of Tommy Hilfiger ‘s aesthetic, brand, and most recent collection. She began with an elaborate comparison of Hilfiger’s Spring 2010 to a pruned hedge. “My thoughts kept returning to those obsessively clipped privet hedges on Nantucket and in the Hamptons. They look so artificial — and one must assume they look that way because their owners are made anxiously uncomfortable by the sight of an ungroomed one.” 

Psychological takedowns of banal prep do not happen nearly enough. The gems kept dropping from Cathy Horyn’s mouth as she sneered “For Mr. Hilfiger, the runway may be paved in imitation fieldstone, as it was on Sunday night in the Lincoln Center show space, but it’s still a big Sisyphean ball of khaki. Materially, the output will never exceed the creative input, and so he, Mr. Hilfiger of New York, Nantucket and Mustique, is doomed to repeat himself. Or, more accurately, the Hilfiger design team is.”

5. Alexander Wang

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In September of 2010, Horyn did the unthinkable to anyone in fashion not named Cathy Horyn: she dissmissed the young fashion darling du jour. Horyn has some choice words for fashion-world darling Alexander Wang, saying that Alexander Wang is “not a great designer, though he probably would be happy to accept any laurels that people want to toss him, but he is clearly a shrewd guy.” And the analysis went downhill from there. Some choice barbs:

“Even the most talented, surprising postmodernist designer can seem to have his feet planted in concrete compared to the weightlessness of Alexander Wang”

 “Mr. Wang doesn’t really have courage in the traditional sense of trying something new and difficult, but he does have China. Nearly all of his clothing is now produced there”

“But don’t fret for the 26-year-old Mr. Wang: the combined whiplash of globalization and the Internet all but guarantees that these clothes will look new to someone”

And, my favorite opening ever of a runway review:

“Fashion doesn’t have much of a past now that everything is instant, and don’t expect clothes to look coherent or a designer to have a consistent style. Of course, this new condition in fashion may strike you as messy, shallow, dependent on borrowed ideas and visually boring, but don’t worry: like nausea, this feeling will pass.”

How The West Will Be Won

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Portlandia told you to put a bird on it. I’m telling you to put a fringe on it.

From Chanel to Alexander Wang to Tracy Reese, western motifs flooded Spring and Fall 2014 Runways. Eye catching pieces worthy of even the Wildest West included leather handbags lined in suede fringe, heavy denim, oversize cowboy hats, rugged leathers, and even the occasional bolero. City Slickers will delight in melding modern bohemia, tribal touches, and John Wayne for a gloriously wearable incantation of our romanticized nostalgia of the West of days yore.”Pair festive fringe with leather and denim, hand-embroidered cotton with beaded jewelry, and gingham with woven straw accessories,” Vogue advises “and leave the hokey getups for the rodeo.”

Nothing says ‘urban cowboy’ like fringed accessories, and the tattered accents roamed virtually every Western inspired Collection.I’m just feelin’ the fringe this season,” Designer Tracy Reese said backstage of her Fall 2014 show, where models walked the Tracy Reese runway in fringed, handkerchief-inspired shawls.“This is basically what we would want to pack in our suitcases were we taking a trip to Texas”, describes Cushnie of Cushnie et Ochs, “It was city slickers. It wasn’t overly Western, but very much sort of this urban fantasy of Western life. Our urban fantasy of what it would be like to go to Texas.”

Tibi and Charlotte Ronson channeled Cowboy’s And Indians with exaggeratedly oversized cowboy hats, a cheeky tribute to the broad brimmed panama/floppy hats currently en vogue with hipster fashionistas. Stuart Verves was all about the fringed suede purse and the ever sensational Mara Hoffman designed fringed ponchos festooned with one of her signature bright prints. Tommy Hilfiger‘s Fall 2014 collection featured an outdoorsy beige shirt dress embroidered with red arrows and accented with camel colored suede.

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Real life differs wildly from the Runway, so Glamour offered these 3 fantastic Do’s and Don’ts for wearing Western:

  1. DO belt it
    “Cinching a blanket cape with a belt makes the look wearable instead of overpowering,” advises Gunlocke Fenton. “Plus, it’s more girly than gaucho if you show off your waist.”
  2. DO tie one on Replace your usual necklace with a little black ribbon or bow for a feminine take on the bolo. “It’s a simple way to update your classic white button-down,” says Gunlocke Fenton. “Shirting is everywhere now and this feels fresh.
  3. DON’T go overboard “A Stetson hat, a longer skirt, or a fringed bag are all great ways to dip your toe in the trend,” Gunlocke Fenton says. “But wear just one or two pieces at a time. You don’t want to look like you’re wearing a costume.”

The stylehaüs stylists took 5 Western-inspired Runway looks and created wearable, Street Style ready outfits for each ensemble.

1. CHANEL DOES DALLAS

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 Chanel mixes together modern bohemia with the days of the west with this get up. The soft materials and embellishment make the look versatile for any type of woman.

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Dannijo Clea Earrings $295, Madison Martin Margiela Embellished Top $730 net-a-porter.com, Topshop Sheer Overlay Skirt $80, Toga Pulla Embellished Loafer $549

2. All Denim All Day

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Prada 2015 Spring/Summer Runway breathed new life into classic denim dresses with clever accents and a rough & tumble aura.

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 Rag and Bone Fedora Hat $195, M&F Western Crystal belt $85, Prada Studded Denim Clutch $590, H&M shirt $15, Topshop Moto Stripe Denim Dress $80, Saint Laurent Western Style boots $1295, Boyfriend Jeans $52 Frontrowshop.com

3. Kill Bill 

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                                                                                  Saint Laurent Spring/Summer 2015 collection has invented their own unique style that is effortlessly cool; The western x Indie Rock. Screen shot 2014-07-07 at 4.03.43 PM   Nastygal Crop Leather Jacket $88, Lucky Brand Frozen Blue Stone Ring $25, Lovely Bird “San Miguel” Fedora $128, Forever21 western cuff $3.80, Toga Pulla Western Suede Ankle Boot $275, Talitha Kaftan Dress $577, Black Drop Feather Earring $8.90 Jcpenney.com, Boho chain necklace $27 2020ave.com, River Island Cara ripped jean $70.

4. Paris, Texas

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Tibis’ 2014/15 western inspired collection is structured and sophisticated. Breathtakingly Beautiful.

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Topshop Dusted Coat $158, Forever21 Tassel Scarf $9.80, Green Fedora Hat $60 davidjones.com.au, Vince Camuto Crossbody Bag $298, Topshop Cuff Joggers $76, MissSelfridge Fluffy Jumper $53, Jil Sander Loafer $800 thecorner.com

5. Lady Anne Oakley

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 Alexander Wang’s Spring 2014 look takes the rigid cowboy to a softer side using light colors and sheer materials.

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Bottega Veneta High Waisted Trousers $450, Burberry Prorsum Silk Organza Top $530, Kate Moss for Topshop Paisley Scarf $85, Chinese Laundry Shoes $40, Heidi Klein Havana Cowboy Hat $198